Matatus'R'Us

Matatus are an essential component of the transportation grid in Kenya. By definition, a matatu is a 15-passenger van, with three bench seats and 2 rows of 3 seats each. The seats in rows 3 and 4 are very narrow, with a very narrow space between the folding seat next to the sliding door and the 2 seats. It's by far the cheapest - and least comfortable - way to get from point A to point B

A moving matatu with 15 or fewer passengers is a rare sight, however. I don't know if I've ever seen a matatu tout turn any potential passenger away. There's always room for one (or two or three) more.; after all, the tout's cut for each trip is based on the number of passengers he can cram in.  25 adults is not uncommon. Adults who are sometimes accompanied by children, live chickens, goats, potted trees, sacks of potatoes, and baskets of greens.

Here's how they do it. 

 a) at least 4 people (sometimes 5) are expected to fit on each bench seat;
 b) children are expected to sit on laps or stand;
 c) rows 3 and 4, the ones with 3 seats, including the folding one - are expected to hold 4 passengers each;
 d) the narrow space between the folding seats and the rest of the seats in those rows is sometimes considered a seat as well.

It's essential to have small money on you for a matatu trip. That's because the tout often "forgets" to give you change, or the correct change, and, particularly with westerners, will hope that you won't remember the rate you were promised or will be too well-bred to keep pestering them.

It's also essential to keep your wits about you and keep your hands and eyes on your belongings, particularly in the city. Enough said.

While the ride in an inter-city matatu may be uncomfortable, it's much less frightening than riding in an urban matatu. Urban drivers have no fear, and urban matatu drivers take pride in their recklessness, their willingness to . They speed, they create lanes where none exist, they race to get their vehicles into awkward spots first, then become enraged with their competitors when "someone" has to back up to avoid losing a mirror. Drivers are often egged on by their passengers, and particularly egregious maneuvers are loudly cheered.